© 2009-2011 Quality Eating and Drinking London Ltd

 

© 2009-2011 Quality Eating and Drinking London Ltd

Newer: Instant haggis

Sausage and Fennel Fiorelli: Waitrose

OK, it's supermarket pasta. It's what lots of people would call a cop-out. Real devotees would roll their own pasta. No, real devotees would haul a couple of millstones over from Italy, plough up the back garden for the wheat, ... are you listening, Kay Hartman?

No, but seriously, this is a perfectly acceptable dish, either as a starter or as a midweek main course. The pasta is smooth, and the filling is quite perky. A bit of flaked pepper, but not overpowering. Nice crunchy fennel, though sliced oddly like ginger. Decent sausage (93% pork; 24% pork by weight in the complete article). All that's needed is oil to anoint: you certainly don't want a heavy-handed supermarket sauce.

Perhaps a cheat, but a winning cheat.