© 2009-2011 Quality Eating and Drinking London Ltd

 

© 2009-2011 Quality Eating and Drinking London Ltd

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Standing out from the plain

Have a taste for the abstruse? Teroldego is not, how shall I put it, the best known of grape varieties. It really only thrives on the Rotaliano plain in Trentino, Italy. A typical wine, therefore, for independent merchants Green and Blue to stock. I have long admired their daring attitude on what to stock; they list where others fear to tread, specialising in wines from small artisans, much of which is organic or biodynamic. Little wonder they have in the past been crowned Independent Merchants of the Year.

Their Foradori Teroldego Rotaliano 2008 is quite a mouthful. “Elisabetta Foradori”, they explain in their informative online list, “is generally considered to be the leading producer of Teroldego. It is all she makes on the family estate and she is quite an expert. She believes passionately in clonal diversity and her vineyards are correspondingly planted with a variety of different clones which give her wines layers of complexity often lacking in those of her neighbours.” The wine has good grip and length and belies Teroldego’s reputation for producing simple gluggers. It is nevertheless Foradori’s basic cuvée using fruit from her younger vines. The year it spends in oak gives a hint of itself behind the ripeness of the nose, and lends a layer of spice to the plummy fruit. The wine has decent length and finishes with a refreshing sourish twist, sending you back for the next sip. I enjoyed it with a simple lasagne; Green and Blue recommend “Rabbit, Duck, Chicken in red wine sauces, pasta with heavy, meaty sauces.”

Foradori Teroldego Rotaliano 2008: £18.40