© 2009-2011 Quality Eating and Drinking London Ltd

 

© 2009-2011 Quality Eating and Drinking London Ltd

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The trout, the whole trout, ...

... but more than 'nothing but the trout'.

Fourth Saturday, and no Met line. No intellectual effort required: today, to Beaconsfield FM.

The (male) siren sang his song, and I picked up a couple of nice trout from Brookleas Farm. We had broccoli, and we had an apple going spare. We also had harvested some sweet pork fat from a pot of rillettes.

So the pork fat roasted some eighthed (octate?) potatoes (parboiled), and the apple was fused with shallot and almond (with the help of a splash of white wine). I laid a bunch of tarragon inside the bellies of the trout, which were seared and then doused in white wine (SA sauvignon, if you must) to be steamed till done. That gave us tastes en travesti: dry and tangy trout with sweet helpers (potatoes and apple), with the broccoli providing 'referee crunch'.

It helped that the flesh marched off the bone at the merest wave of a knife in the vicinity. Earlier today, I read Fiona Beckett's call for autumnal white wines, but we turned it on its head. Let's have some autumnal sweetness and depth to our frippery fish plate, and offset it with a menthol-clean wine. It's still good for leaf-turning days.

To spar with the fishy-sweety aftermath: some Birdoswald cheese, liberated from the best motorway services in the country.

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