© 2009-2011 Quality Eating and Drinking London Ltd

 

© 2009-2011 Quality Eating and Drinking London Ltd

Articles in Food writing category

Reflected glory, or bedazzlement?

How often do we hear of something defined in "aiming-off" orienteering terms? You know the score — "the poor man's Arsenal" (though after today's showing, surely Arsenal are the poor man's Arsenal?), or "East Kilbride's answer to David Attenborough". Though I still prefer the honesty of "I am to golf what Mozart was to fluid dynamics".

Yesterday, I saw (and tasted) an interesting looking little cheese called l'Édel de Cléron. Dainty, semi-soft, rinded, spruce-girdled, from Franche-Comté. Tuck in, and it's rich with mountain milk, slightly tangy (but not aggressively so), and quite addictive. But when I went to the Web to find out more, I found out less. Just about every reference called it faux vacherin. I'm sorry, vacherin is vacherin, and this is its own master. The few sites which did not call it vacherin tried to call it a mountain brie. Great: is that like an Essex haggis?

Yes, we all relativise, whether it's "a hint of juhfark in this wine", or "that gjetost is like Stenhousemuir toffee", or the more (ahem) mainstream "cat's pee on a gooseberry bush". Is it useful, or is it lazy?

Answers, please, via the comment box below.

Suppersize me!

Tintosup No, we're not going to be tempted by the "Do you want fries with that?" line (after all, the auto-da-fé came later). This morning, the Los Angeles Times reported on the gradual increase in the quantity of food portrayed in Last Supper paintings down the ages, musing on whether art imitates life (or possibly vice versa). A few hours later, the same story was picked up by the BBC.

The idea that general agricultural advances and abundance have fuelled this increase will be of little surprise to many, but we should always keep in mind undercurrents of the artists' desire to reflect the power of the purchaser of the painting (real or as imagined for marketing reasons by the artist).

Sheila Lukins (1942-2009)

Sheila Lukins, who died on 30 August, was one half of the Silver Palate duo (the other half was Julee Rosso) who, it is said, made a great impact on dining-in in New York (and, by extension through their books and other publicity, throughout USA and beyond). There is a thoughtful article by Kim Severson in the New York Times which may be of interest to our readers, and we invite comment about the article and its echoes in London (and elsewhere in UK).

Note: the New York Times requires a free registration to use its website. Several QED directors have been long-time NYT registrands, and we have no qualms about linking to the NYT site. The data-use standards of NYT are impeccable, with little or no mail traffic as a result of registration (and only directly related to reading NYT online).

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